For years, radishes seemed like a bit of a one-trick pony to me. You could eat them raw - either whole dipped in salted butter, or sliced into salads for a peppery kick. But then, back in 2015, I ate lunch at Riverford Farm’s restaurant where they roasted them whole with flecks of sea-salt. It was a revelation: you can cook them. Of course, China had figured that out thousands of years ago. Radishes find their way into a number of cooked dishes in China, from braises and stews, to stir-fries and, like this, into crispy fritters.

There are variations of radish fritters all over the country, but depending on the region, they might add a regional slant. In the North, it might be pork or sausage, in the South, a handful of shrimps. The radish used here is the long white daikon (or mooli), not the rosy red balls we are familiar with in the UK. However, I’m sure the often neglected, mild-mannered turnip would make a good substitute if you can’t find a daikon. You can leave out the taro completely if you prefer - it adds a kind of gummy, almost doughy texture, which I quite like, but it’s not to everyone’s taste.

Serves 3-4