Xinjiang Lamb Skewers
羊肉串儿
English: Xinjiang Lamb Skewers
Chinese: 羊肉串儿
Pinyin： yangrou chuan’r
Literal: Lamb Skewers
Although lamb, cumin, and chilli powder aren't traditionally part of Han Chinese cooking, nothing says 'Northern Chinese food' quite like lamb chuan'r (羊肉串儿). Originally from Xinjiang, these smoky lamb skewers have been embraced all across Northern China as if part of their own cuisine. There are thousands of barbecue restaurants in every Northern city, from Changchun to Dalian to Beijing to Datong and beyond that aren't Xinjiang establishments, but rather a distinct cultural phenomenon.
There's no escaping these sizzling skewers on barbecues across Northern cities. Look for the LED lights shaped like 串 (the Mandarin character for chuan'r), and you'll find these essential late-night pit-stops for taxi drivers, weary office workers and ravenous drinkers. The spaces are rough-and-ready - the closest thing China gets to a bar - filled with smoke, beer-sticky tables and fat-bellied men ripping hunks of meat off metal spikes with their teeth.
My first time in a local chuan'r restaurant in Beijing, it took me a while to leave my manners at the door and embrace the culture of happily throwing sticks, scallop shells, and beer bottles on the floor. But that's part of the charm – it's messy eating at its best, a quintessential Northern Chinese dining experience.
Serves 6-8 (about 14 skewers) - serve with some veg sides and barbecued chicken wings as they do in Chuan’r restaurants.
Note on Cooking
Traditional chuanr is cooked over charcoal for a smoky flavour, but you can also use a gas grill or a grill pan on the stovetop. Preheat your grill to medium-high heat. If using charcoal, let it burn until the flames die down and the coals are glowing.
Ingredients
700g lamb shoulder or leg, with fat, (cut roughly into 3cm cubes)
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
1 tablespoon salt
1 tablespoon sugar
1 tablespoon ground cumin
1 tablespoon whole cumin seeds
1 tablespoon chilli power
4 garlic cloves, finely chopped
1 tablespoon soy sauce
1 teaspoon ground black pepper
2 tablespoons Shaoxing wine
2 egg white
Seasoning
1 teaspoon ground cumin
¼ teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon chilli powder
Equipment
14-20 bamboo/wooden skewers (soaked in water for at least 30 minutes to prevent burning) or metal skewers.
Method
Place your bamboo skewers into a large tray and cover with water. I use a deep baking tray for this. If you have metal skewers, then obviously no need to soak those.
Prepare the Lamb. Cut the meat into 3cm cubes, ensuring each piece has a good mix of meat and fat for juiciness. Dice any excess fat into small cubes too.
Make the marinade. In a large bowl, combine the vegetable oil, salt, sugar, ground cumin, cumin seeds, chilli powder, garlic, soy sauce, black pepper, Shaoxing wine and egg white. Mix well and then add the lamb cubes into the mix and toss until the meat is thoroughly coated.
Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and marinate for at least an hour in the refrigerator. For a deeper flavour, and more tender meat, leave overnight.
When ready, remove your bamboo skewers from the water (or have your metal ones ready). Thread the lamb cubes onto the skewers, alternating between lean meat and fat (or a fattier cut), if possible. Don't pack the pieces too tightly—keep them just touching to allow space for even cooking. Thread 5 or 6 pieces onto each skewer.
Prepare the grill. If using a home grill/broiler, set to a medium heat. Place the skewers over a deep baking tray, the skewer tip and base resting on the sides and the meat hanging down in the middle, this allows for easy turning.
When the grill is hot, cook the skewers for 8-10 minutes, turning every 1-2 minutes for even cooking. As you turn the skewers, sprinkle the seasoning over the meat.
Once the lamb is nicely charred on the edges and cooked to at least medium (lamb would never be cooked rare in China), remove the skewers from the grill and serve with a little pot of seasoning on the side in case any guests want an extra burst of flavour.
